A Drive Down History’s Lane

Day trip ideas from Bangalore
How many times have we not typed this lazy sentence into Google’s search bar? I have been guilty of it, multiple times. As I got ready to see the same results, this time I remembered a conversation I had with someone long ago.

“Just Google Temples around Hassan” and you will get a long list…” he had said.

Boy, was he right.

History is strangely reticent about the Hoysalas. The tales of splendor about the bountiful & mighty Vijayanagara empire do tend to overshadow the other smaller kingdoms it sprung from. As a result, there are a lot of temples scattered across the state which go largely unseen. While one cluster is in North Karnataka (Badami, Pattadkal & Aihole of the Chalukyas), there is another cluster much closer to Bangalore.

Travellers who pass through Hassan while travelling to the more popular destinations of Chikmagalur or Mangalore usually visit the famous Belur & Halebidu wonders. However, there is a multitude of architectural marvels in this district’s tiny taluks, mostly deserted, but worth visiting.

The Hoysalas have left an undeniable mark in this region. This was a dynasty which was born from the embers of the dying Chalukyas and flourished before the more famous Vijayanagara royals emerged. It was under them that Kannada evolved as a language and got a distinct body of its own. Basavanna, Madhvacharya & Ramanuja were the three great thinkers of this age who steered the kingship towards Hinduism and firmly established its principles. Influences of this can be seen in every architectural product from these times.

Depending on the time of the year when you visit these places, the routes can be very scenic. Roads are in good condition and can be covered in a day trip. The recent bout of torrential rains has led to bursts of green, making the drive an absolute delight.

We left Bangalore at 7.30 in the morning and took to NH75, stopping at Dhruvatare restaurant for breakfast. These were only a few temples which we saw; there are many more in Arsikere, Kikkeri, Hullekere, etc.

Stop 1 – Malur Malleshwara Temple

We visited this mainly to see the windmills up close. It is a modern temple, situated at the top of a small hillock. If you are planning an architectural tour, you can probably skip this place. The sunrise & sunset views are supposedly spectacular. I can only imagine the magic monsoons might weave around this landscape.

Stop 2 – Nuggehalli, Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Temple

We took a confused & circuitous route to Nuggehalli from Mavnur, courtesy of Google. It is a small temple and the idol inside is still worshipped with pooja happening daily. Though it has 3 towers (this style is called “Trikuta”), the façade is deceptive – you do not see the entire structure from the front. The temple & sculptures unfold only when you do a circumambulation (or, a pradakshina). It is a Vaishnavite temple, with three garbagrihas housing three forms of Vishnu – Venugopala, Lakshmi Narasimha & Keshava. It is believed that it was commissioned by Bomanna Dandanayaka, a military chieftain of Hoysalas.

Stop 3 – Korvangala, Bucheshwara Temple

Just 9 km from the main city of Hassan, this was constructed when Hoysalas were still new rulers, to mark the coronation of Veera Ballala II. It has two sanctums, each facing each other, connected by a middle mandapa. One of the sanctums houses the god Bhairava (a form of Shiva) and the other, Suryanarayana.

Stop 4 – Mosale, Sri Nageshwara & Chennakeshwa Temple

After a quick stop at Hassan for lunch, we drove to Mosale. The temple is situated at the end of one of the prettiest lanes I have seen and the complex still acts as the village centre. We spotted many locals gathered around the temple stairs, discussing issues. The ASI caretaker, Jayaram was a great host. He opened the shrines just for us and told us little snippets of this temple’s history. It is believed that the temple was commissioned by Veera Ballala II. When on an annual visit to the village fair he noticed that the villagers were an acrimonious lot– the Shivites (worshippers of Shiva) and Vaishnavites (worshippers of Vishnu) were always at each other’s throats. The king counselled the villagers and reminded them the two Gods were like brothers, each working together to bring harmony to the universe. Lest this was forgotten, he commissioned the construction of these twin temples, where Shiva & Vishnu are worshipped next to each other to this day. The two temples are near mirrors, with minor variations in the sculptures to denote individual stories & beliefs of the two gods.

And thus ended our day-long trip to Hassan. Needless to say, this is curated for history buffs. I always find these relics & ruins fascinating. Though born of religions, they stand for art and culture. They whisper of happenings about which we can only imagine, of a life unseen. It is also interesting to hear the locals talk about these places and see the small shops which dot the compounds. While modern temples, parks, and hill stations are always crowded, these architectural marvels rarely see footfall. Perhaps I should not complain too much – the resulting calm & peace while experiencing these places are the best perks.